Peeking out from under long coats they created an on-the-go feeling and they breathed new life into classic 1930s silhouettes featuring the handkerchief-hems and/or black lace that Coco Chanel herself favored back in the day. That meant longer hemlines, of course, but what made things streamlined and relevant to a fast-paced modern lifestyle was that almost everything was worn over what the designer called a “stiletto body ” made of a Spandex with a light sheen. “Elongated to death,” is how Lagerfeld put it to a reporter from Reuters. As Anna Wintour wrote in her editor’s letter, this collection” moved daringly and definitively away from the plain, minimal, and vulnerable look that has characterized so many clothes over the past five years” of the 1990s.īeyond the exquisite embellishments, the news here was the attenuation of the silhouette. ![]() It wasn’t just that the collection included a record-making dress that required 1,280 hours of work chez Lesage, the show marked a sea change in fashion. Vogue deemed Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 1996 couture outing for Chanel so spectacular that “Ode to Coco,” a stand-alone Irving-Penn portfolio, was dedicated to it. They honor the memory of Karl Lagerfeld, the giant and prolific talent who. ![]() This one, for Chanel couture, was shown in July 1996 in Paris. Editor’s note: Vogue Runway is closing out the decade by adding six archival Chanel shows to our collections archive. Editor’s Note: Ahead of the opening of “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty” at the Costume Institute, we are celebrating his talent by adding five newly digitized archival shows he designed to the Vogue Runway Archive.
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